Beauty and The Beast

After a couple of weeks out of the loop, I’m now back on track and determined to walk 30 miles by the end of the week. Yesterday’s circular route in Argyll links Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s Hill House in the douce seaside town of Helensburgh with Rhu Marina. The high path passes through a woodland nature reserve with glimpses across the water to Greenock, Gouroch and the Rosneath peninsula. I was lucky to get a good day for it – sunny and 23C –  a rare phenomenon this summer. It was a lovely, peaceful walk.


After the walk, I went for a bit of a drive up the Gare Loch coming to a site where ‘Peace’ is an extremely hot topic in Scotland. First I passed the 33-year-old Peace Camp and then HMNB Clyde, better known as the Faslane Naval Base. I was shocked (it’s almost 20 years since I drove this way) both by the menacing scale of the place and by how much the sight of it unsettled me. Faslane is the home of Britain’s nuclear weapons in the shape of nuclear submarines armed with Trident missiles.

Due to its strategic position – secluded but navigable – Faslane was first constructed and used as a base in World War II. At the height of the Cold War, it became the base for the Polaris missile system, which was progressively replaced by Trident missiles from the mid 1990’s onwards. Last year, the UK Government pressed ahead with its £3 billion expansion of the base amid political opposition from the SNP.


No matter what your beliefs on Trident and the nuclear deterrent, it’s hard to deny that Faslane is a blot on our beautiful landscape.


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